"Loosen" lug nuts (not loose, just started) before lifting tires off the ground.
Use jack stands, not jacks, to securely hold the truck up.
Behind the tire is the rotor and caliper.
There are two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to a mounting bracket.
Remove the caliper bolts and move the caliper out of the way.
Brake shoe pads slide right out. My truck has 107,000 and still some good brake pad material left on them -- because it is the rear brakes. The front ones will be much worse.
There are shims above and below the brake pads. Keep those, you need them.
Remove two 17mm bolts to remove caliper bracket.
Find the impact driver that your brother gave you for Christmas many years ago. It's important to use your ball-peen hammer if you have one -- the poor lonely ball-peen never gets used any other time.
Pound the end of the driver and the screw will begin to turn out.
Remove the rubber plug. You will need to use it in the new rotor.
The rotor comes off fairly easy, but in the rear the emergency brake is inside the rotor and may bind to make the rotor difficult to remove. I had to whack it with a rubber mallet on the emergency brake area and around the edged to get it to loosen enough to come off.
The new rotor slides on over the lug bolts. Remember to put the rubber plug into the new rotor.
Replace the caliper bracket and brake shoe shims.
Apply brake lubrication on the top and bottom edges where the shoes touch the shims.
I put a socket into the piston to make it easier to compress it with a C-clamp. I also loosened the brake master cylinder cover before compressing the caliper piston.
Replace the caliper and secure with two 12mm bolts. Then you are ready to replace the wheel/tire.
Doing the brake job myself saved me a couple hundred dollars (I ordered the parts on Amazon) and gave me a great opportunity to try something new and to enjoy my truck.
